Croatia 3
After leaving the Dubovnik area, we decided to sample one of the 1000s of islands of the coast, Korcula, but by the time we got to the ferry port in Orebic, we had lost all interest in the islands. Orebic was wonderful, if a little out of the way. We had driven about 60 kilometers out a peninsula through vineyards and hundreds of roadside wine shops selling the owner's personal brew. Our hotel overlooked the bay and we could clearly see Korcula, but Orebic was clearly a place that local Croatians adored and Marriott had overlooked. After a terrific dinner on the water, we walked through a park and stopped at a lighted bocce court to watch a serious game between two teams of two- a retired policeman and a stone mason versus a vineyard owner and a retail business owner. a waiter from the restaurant across the street was serving the gentlemen drinks. A wonderful vignette.
The last official stop in Croatia before departure was the Plitvice Lakes National Parks. Before leaving the peninsula we stopped at Ston where there was an especially curious walled fortification that curved up and over the mountain. Ston was at one time a possession of the city state of Dubrovnik, which constructed this fortification to protect a salt mine from the Turks and the Venetians. In those days, salt was more valuable than gold. I purchased 100 grams of Fleur de Sal (the so called highest quality salt available) there, and I can tell you it still is.
In order to get to Plitvice, the quickest route is to take A1, the new expressway, which is the Croatian version of an interstate. It is well designed, well organized, clearly signed, scenic and FAST. The other thing that strikes you about A1 is the number of tunnels. Croatians tunnel through everything - beautifully. They do not pave over the top of a mountain when there is an opportunity to go through it. At first, it seemed quite strange, but I have since decided that the practice preserves the pristine nature of the landscape because you are not looking at long expanses of pavement over tops of every hill. You just have to see it to understand.
Plitivice itself is one of the most popular tourist spots in the country, but I suspect that most foreign visitors do not venture this far into the interior to look at lakes and waterfalls. That is essentially all there is, but that does not begin to describe the beauty of he place. For my fellow Tennesseans and North Carolinians, the forests remind me of the Great Smoky Mountain, and the nearly constant sound of rushing water recalls home. There is more. Plitivice Lakes National Park is a series of terraced lakes which drain into the next mostly through a network of waterfalls. And the water. The colors of green, blue-green and turquoise are beyond belief, but I have pictures. You are welcome to see for yourself.
Now, my friends, I am at the Hotel Aristos, a four star hotel near the airport in Zagreb. It will be a while before I fully absorb all that we have seen. I am weary and energized at the same and look forward to seeing you all again. Safe travels.
Jim
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