I promised to talk about Chania (or Hania or Xania) and even though that place is far behind us, there is something that you need to know if you make this trip. The overnight ferry from Piraeus to Chania docks at about 5:30am, and with a complimentary orange juice and cup of coffee, you are dispatched from the ferry. The ferry port is a very bleak place at this hour so you must take a bus into town. The buses are idling right off the boat but don't daudle because there are a limited number. Thankfully, I do not have to speculate about what you would do if the bus left without you. I think the bus was one euro twenty, but if it was five euros to get out of this place, it was worth it. The bus let's you off in the center of town. There is a little square with businesses like any other downtown. At 5:30 or 6:00 in the morning there is not much to do while you wait for a rental car agency to open. Providence lead us to the Arkadi Hotel to ask for some directions. The night manager there was unbelievably generous with his time and information. First, he unlocked a closet and allowed us to put our bags there, safe and secure. Then he took us down the street to point out a favored rental car agency. Best of all, he suggested that we walk a couple of blocks down a narrow street to the old harbor, a scenic little bowl of water now reserved for tour boats. On one side the harbor is protected by an ancient fort and the other by fortified stone wall and light house projecting out to create a narrow throat for entry into the harbor. There was a wide boulevard that rimmed the harbor lined by cafes with tall residential buildings behind. The whole scene looked a lot like Venice. 

We sat at one cafe on the water where we were the first customers, had breakfast and watched the city wake up and come to life. It was the perfect start to a new day and new adventure. By 9am we were in a rental car and on our way to see the rest of Crete.