If you are one of those people who is not Inclined to drive down dirt roads, you may miss the best Crete has to offer. That is my opinion. For instance, drive southeast from Chania ( more about that later) in the general direction of Darraj, Libya, down a dirt road, just before you completely submerge your car in the mediterrean Sea, is a place called Elafonisi or Lafonisios or a host of other names the Greeks have given this place (There tend to be multiple names for most places). It may very well be the most beautiful beach I have ever seen that did not have a Hyatt. In fact, there is nothing there except a taverna with a few rooms to rent and a mini-market (Do not think 7-11, Pilot ot Weigel), some umbrellas and beach chairs, a fellow selling delicious and overpriced corn on the cob and loads of pristine beach, rocky outcrops, private coves and the most incredible cerulean, aquamarine and turquoise water you have ever seen. 

Another dirt road adventure has resulted in a trip to Preveli Beach on the south coast, which is very rocky but equally beautiful. Based on my experience, it is nearly impossible to find - there were only eight other people there. If you try for yourself, follow the signs to Palm Beach not Preveli Beach. When you get to the Preveli Monastery, you will be treated to an amazing view from the side of the cliff of the Sea. You will also know that you are lost. persevere, it is worth it. 

Finally, we ended up in Irakleio, major city from which we travel tomorrow by ferry to Santorini. Driving in Crete has been much more enjoyable and relaxed than I thought it would be. Drivers on the main roads tend to be very courteous, slower traffic pulling over to the far right side of the roadway to allow faster drivers by, and tend to take the official suggestions of a speed limit very lightly. The rented Daewoo is keeping up fairly well on the highways. When traversing the island north and South; however, you cross a ridge of steep mountains with torturously windy and narrow roads and second gear gets a workout. It is all so incredibly beautiful. The people of Crete seemed to have found a way to integrate themselves into their environment instead of dominating it. The small, angular houses, pure white with terra cotta roofs and surrounded by terra cotta pots of flowers, sit amongst the olive trees, oleander and bougainvillea. The hillsides are dotted with Greek Orthodox churches with impossibly steep walking paths up to them from the road. We drove past one such church on Sunday morning and saw two ladies, one much older and walking with a cane, both dressed in solid black dresses, tentatively and carefully measuring each step on a dirt path from the church in which they had been attending worship. It was a wonderful show of faith, commitment and humility. That is Crete.